I Remember
Isaiah 43:18. Remember ye not the former things, neither consider the things of old.
I consider it a great privilege to remember the former things; and to consider the things of old; that carries my memory and thoughts back to the early 1900’s in Bells, Texas.
Back to: Bells Texas
The story of Bells and the people in the early pioneer days, I dedicate to my father and mother, James Jefferson (Jeff) Sanford and Annie Dishner Sanford. They were married January 27, 1901 by Brother A.E. Emerson, an early day Methodist preacher who lived in Bells on Gospel Ridge. They came to Bells on their wedding day and lived there the rest of their lives. They are buried in East Rose Hill Cemetery at Bells, Texas. My father was born July 16, 1872 at Dyersburg, Tennessee. He died March 23, 1939 at Bells, Texas. My mother was born March 12, 1883 at Rogersville, Tennessee. She died April 12, 1977. They came to Texas with their family when they were small children.
James & Annie bought their home in Bells about 1910. It was the oldest house in Bells, situated in Bailey Junction, North Bells. By that time they had three children, Lonnie Albert born Nov. 18, 1902, Oma Leah born Mar. 18, 1905 and Mary Catherine born Nov. 24, 1907. I was two years old when we moved to the new home located on a whole block of ground, there my father and mother raised their three children. It had a fence all the way around, with streets on every side of the block, and a board side walk on the south side. We had barns, a smoke house, and a pasture for our mules and cows. There was a large pool of water in the pasture and a creek running across the pasture with all the crawfish a kid could catch. There were large oak trees to play under. We had a large garden to furnish vegetables, which was plowed, planted and well attended every year as long as I can remember. A corn field and a turnip patch was planted every year at the north side of the place. There was a good well of water in the front yard where a weary traveler could stop on horseback, buggy of covered wagon and drink from the dipper we had hanging on their well post. May father always said; It’s the best well of water in Texas. When we were growing up it wasn’t unusual to hear someone drawing water at the well. We would look out and sometimes see a covered wagon stopped in front loaded with children. The man would take out a bucket of water with our dipper and they all had a drink from the best well in Texas. We had a chicken house with all the chickens and eggs we needed. A hog pen with corn raised Hogs. Then each fall we would have the hog killing, curing the meat, hanging it in the smoke house, and rendering the lard, and the crackling bread, the making of Source Meat from the head and feet. Hog killing was one of the best times of the year. Every family enjoyed about the same style of living and family life in Bells at that time.
I have fond memories of the town, its people, the churches, schools, lodges, merchants, railroads, store buildings and the dirt roads, which were often muddy. I remember when the first gravel was put on the streets in Bells and when all the roads in Grayson County were either sand beds or black muddy roads to travel on. It was about 1912 when the first gravel roads were built which was one of the most progressive acts the officials of Grayson County had done up to that time. That is when the main street of Bells was greatly improved. At that time we just called the roads “roads.” There weren’t laid off highways. The streets and county roads were maintained by the towns and county. So we have another picture of progress for Grayson County and its roads. We now have wide paved highways which run in every direction, Built and maintained by the State and National Governments. I remember the guarded chain gang prisoners each County would put out to do the County’s road work for a period to work out their fine. The road gang camped in Bells when working roads in that area. That was eventually done away with about 1925 when heavy machinery became available to maintain roads, after that the mule drawn machinery and wagons were a thing of the past. I remember, when there wasn’t an automobile in Bells, Everyone had a surrey, buggy or wagon which they pulled with horses or mules.
In the early days of Bells the people loved their neighbors and shared the prosperity, the hardships, their cares, and troubles. Bells is located in Eastern Grayson County. During that period the primary progress of the railroads, the town was blessed to have the Missouri, Kansas and Texas; better known as the Katy; and the Texas and Pacific cross there. Not only do the highways cross, but the railroads cross in Bells. So the name has been added, “Bells at the Cross Roads.”
It has been known as one of the most prosperous areas of Grayson County. To the north is sandy soil to the Red River. To the south is the black land belt of good fertile soil. On the east is about one and a half miles to the Fannin County line. To the west is farm land; and ranching; and the road to the county seat at Sherman. To the northwest is highway 69 to Denison about 14 miles.
The early history of Bells dating back before 1900 is quite unique. It was two towns. The T & P Railroad was the dividing line between the two towns. North Bells was known as Bailey Junction. South Bells was Dugansville. Each town had its own voting box, its own post office and governing system. Its own business places. Later years by mutual agreement the two joined hands and became one town. The name Bells was chosen. Some said it was named for the cattle roaming in the open country with bells on. Some said the railroad workers named it Bells. Most likely it was named when the two towns were combined and the United States Postal Department chose a name.
In the plot of Bells and on all old abstracts the town was laid off by survey, by blocks, streets, lots, alleys and etc. Every street was given a name. There were board sidewalks built all over Bells. I can remember when I was small , about 1910, we could walk all over Bells from the North side, to the south side, on board side walks. The walks went by most every home. When I first started to school I walked on a board sidewalk. Later as the board walks wore through, and the boards brake the boards would be replaced with cinder gravel from the coal fired steam train engines.
Where the railroads crossed in Bells there was a depot. In the early days, about 1910 to about 1950 there were several passenger trains every day, stopping letting off and picking up passengers. The depot was the center of much activity in those days. It was a good pass time for the people of a small town to go watch the trains come in; and the passengers get off, and more get on.
There was the freight depot and the checking of the freight. Many freight trains were in and out of Bells. On the Katy tracks south of town was built the stock yards, where cattle were driven from various parts of the country. Some wee driven across the Red River from Oklahoma to be loaded in freight cattle cars and shipped to fort Worth or Chicago. I can remember hearing the hollering of the cowboys when they were loading the cattle. I can remember when the trains would be pulled out of Bells at night loaded with cattle and how the cows were upset and bawling.
There was the switching of trains in the fall of the year at cotton picking and ginning season. From 1900 to about 1950 cotton was known as King Cotton in Texas. Bells had two large cotton gins. The railroad cars were loaded with the large bales and shipped to the sea port at Houston or to New Orleans, or to the northern states. Come cotton harvest time the gins would run day and night. I can remember the long rows of cotton wagons lined up at the gins waiting their turn to get their cotton unload. Then they hurried back to the fields to be reload. The young People would pick cotton every year for the farmers. The money we made picking was used to buy our school clothes and school supplies. A good fast picker could pick 400 to 500 lbs. a day. We were usually paid a dollar per 100 for picking. We carried our lunch in a bucket and ate in the shade of the wagon. We drank water from a jug that had a toe-sack sewed around it; and kept water soaked, to help cool the water in the jug. We all drank from the same jug. Sounds like pure drudgery, yet we all enjoyed the fun of being together. Many lasting friendships were made by the children picking cotton together, all ages were in the field picking.
The business stores in Bells after the two towns were combined were all in south Bells. One long main street running north and south. From about 1900 to about 1928 there were two water wells in the center of the street. There were watering throughs made of wood so the travelers by wagon could stop and water their team and themselves. It was used the most before automobiles.
Also in the middle of the street was a band stand. At that time about 1900 until 1920, it was used for political speaking. At that time politicians traveled by horse back or buggy. Since Bells had the railroads they came by train. Usually on Saturday afternoons there was someone speaking in the bandstand to a crowd gathered in the street. The Band Stand was also used for The Bells Band, organized before 1900 and active for many years. The director was George Dugan and could play any musical instrument made. Many young people of Bells were taught to play horns or violins by Mr. Dugan. Many times they had their concerts in the school auditorium. Bells was blessed to have Mr. Dugan and his band through the years.
The early day merchants on Main Street were something like this as I remember them from about 1910 to 1928. The First National Bank, served the people of east Grayson County and west Fannin County. It has had three different buildings. The first was an old red brick to the south of the store buildings on Main Street. For years the bank did business in this building. It has stood strong and staunch all these years. Forever serviceable, with dependable people working there. Even during the great depression in the fall of 1929, the First National Bank of Bells remained the same. In later years a new building was built at the cross roads on Highway 82 and Highway 69. For many years the Bank served customers at this location. Now in 1989 the new building is located on Highway 82 about two miles east of town.
The following merchants were in Bells around 1910. The First national Bank, Claud Badgett’s Drug Store, there were four doctors in Bells with their offices in rooms back of the drug store. Yes, the doctors were busy in those day, traveling by horse back and buggy to see their patients. Some of the early doctors that practiced in Bells were Dr. black, Dr. Wilborn, Dr. Bow, Dr. Reeves, Dr. Swafford, Dr. Shanks, Dr. Gould and Dr. Fulton. There were some back before these earlier than 1900. There was the Bells Mercantile Co. or better known as the Alliance Store. It was more like a hardware store. They carried farm supplies, feed, tools, sold wagons and buggies and saddles. Eldridge Craig's Cafe and ice Cream parlor had a beautiful marble fountain and a large mirror on the wall to the back of the fountain. It was a large ornate beautiful mirror. When we were very small children from 1905 until the store closed years later, we would come here to get ice cream cones, milk shakes and cream sodas. Proctor's Variety Store; Lum Johnsons Barber Shop and Jewelry Store were also in Bells. Not only could we get a hair cut for 25 cents, we could get our shoes shined for 10 cents. There was Butch Wilson’s Butcher Shop and Ice House: they also made hamburgers.
There was Jeff Sanford’s grocery store, that also sold dishes, rub boards and coal oil. The people had a one gallon coal oil can. They would bring it and get ti filled for 15 cents. No one had electric lights. Then next to the grocery store was Sanford’s produce house, where chickens, turkeys, geese and ducks were bought, also eggs were bought. The fowls, eggs and 10 gal. cans of butter were shipped by the Katy railroad to White’s Produce Co. at Denison. The only wholesale produce company in the country.
There was Craig’s Harness Shop, where harness and saddles were made. Mr. Craig also repaired and half-soled shoes.
Kernel Foster’s Chilli and Soup Kitchen was known far and wide. The best chilli and soups ever made were by Kernel Foster. The crackers came in an open large box. You could just reach in and help yourself to the crackers.
Tom Miller’s grocery store was where I bought my first bottled strawberry and sour lemon soda pops in a glass bottles. That was about 1912. Coke and Dr. Pepper were unheard of at that time.
Across the street on the east side of main street - going south was a large red brick building known as Ferguson’s General Merchandise. They sold most everything including cloth, thread and buttons for sewing. Next door to their merchandise store was Ferguson’s Casket where the horse drawn hearse was kept. People came in their wagons from miles around to get a casket for burial for some of their folks. That was the only place to buy a casket in east Grayson County. I can always remember the horse drawn hearse for all the funerals in Bells from the time I could remember to about 1928. Then automobile hearses came into use.
There was Hub Grave’s Blacksmith Shop and Grist Mill. A man named John Oney built my daddy a wagon there around the turn of the century, 1900. I can remember carrying corn up to Mr. Graves to grind meal for us. It was coarse ground, husky and had to be well sifted to make bread.
The Lodge Hall where the Masons, Woodmen, Odd Fellows and Rebecca’s met. Ancel Jolley had a printing shop where he printed and published, “The Bells Tribune”. That was the only tow story building on Main Street. The Lodge’s met upstairs. The printing shop was on the lower floor and printed the one time a week paper.
There was the Telephone Office, and the Post Office, with mail coming in by railroad from every direction. Every one had a box or asked for their mail. There were several mail carriers for rural routes at that time.
Will Massey had a Tailor Shop and Bookstore combined. That was before the State furnished free school books. Each student bought their own school books. At that time we traded our old books in for the next years books. Usually they were old and well worn. About 1915 the State started furnishing free school books, that ended Massey’s Book Shop. We were proud of the new books. We were required to cover our new state books. I remember my mother bought cloth and made covers for our new books, so they could be cared for. At the end of school each spring we turned our book in. Then when school started in the fall we were issued new books. Books have been furnished for schools by the state ever since.
About 1912 and for many years after in August there was “The Bells Picnic,” in the city park. For many years Bill Haymes carnival set up in the park for the Bells Picnic. There was the steam swing, and all the stands where we could throw and knock so many cats off the rack, spin a wheel and ect. Sometime a person could get a prize, but not often. There were soda pop stands, lemon ade stands and snow cones. Later years there was a “Ferris Wheel” added - 1914. At first most people were afraid to get on it. People came from all over Grayson County to the picnic. There was a band stand and picnic arbor with seats; where we could sit listen to the band play, and usually each night there were public speakers. One night each year was known as “Katy Night”. The Katy Band came from Denison and performed on the stage under the arbor. There were two or three barrels of drinking water with a chunk of ice in each. There were tin drinking cups wired to the baling wire and nailed to the barrels. Everyone drank from the same cups dipping into the barrel. People were not use to having iced drinking water, so it was good in hot August. If we had a dime to spend we could buy a cold lemon ade.
In the Fall of the year there was the Bells Fair. I remember the first fair, about 1918 during the first world war. The Ladies Home Demonstration Club was very active, as well as the farmers and merchants. The display contained canned foods of every kind, quilts, crochet and hand work by the women. Then all the farm raised products, chickens, turkeys, geese, ducks, sheep, hogs, cattle, horses and mules were shown. There were out of town judges brought in and the blue, red and yellow ribbons attacked to the winners. The Bells Fair only lasted three or four years. It was almost too much for a small town. However the prize winners were carried to Sherman and displayed at the “The Red River Valley Fair”, held in ”Old Settler’s Park” each year. Some or the women that belonged to “The Home Demonstration Club of Bells” for a few years about 1916 to 1920 were Naomi Roddy, Jennie Bow Dugan, Annie Sanford, Annie Badgett, Hettie Proctor, Fae Drewery, Lola Craig, Mrs. Graves, Fae Kimbrough, Mrs. Harve Gibson, and the Belote women. Many others all displayed their fine hand work, quilts and canned foods. The men displayed their farm raised products.
The churches were the best any small town could have. I could always remember the Methodist and Baptist churches. Each was a wood frame building painted white. On Sunday morning each rang their Bells. It was a beautiful sound, clear and calling the people of Bells to worship. There was a Christ building there as I remember back early. It was probably when the town was young. It was an old building but not an active membership. Now the Church of Christ people have a new brick church and parsonage located on Highway 69 in North Bells. The Methodist and Baptist have brick buildings and each a brick parsonage. There is the Missionary Baptist Church and parsonage.
Bells had one of the earliest organized Boy Scout Troops in Texas. Organized by Eldridge Craig, the cafe owner. A large log cabin was built in town close to the bank about 1916. Not only was the log cabin used for scout meetings, it was used for various gatherings. Rex Strickland a school superintendent, taught a man’s bible class there on Sunday morning for several years Bells had Camp fire Girls organization about 1915 - 1920. The school at Bells was better than average. As for back as I remember the High School and Grade School were much better than just an average school in a small town. The citizens of Bells took great pride in the election of School Trustees. The people and trustees was concerned that first we have a good superintendent over all the system, and that we always had; good principals and teacher. I remember about 1914 and for several years we had Chapel every morning in the School Auditorium. All the High School and Grade School children marched to Chapel with someone playing “Napoleon’s Last Charge”. It was a beautiful march. The auditorium was large with rows of opera seats. It had a large stage with three different stage settings and dressing rooms off to each side, one for the boys, one for the girls. The superintendent had charge of the program that was carried out something like this. First a gospel song was sung by all, from gospel song books. The superintendent read a scripture from the Bible and offered prayer. He make announcements for the good of the school; announced who and where the next boys and girls basketball team would play. The teams played on Friday afternoons, after school hours. No night games in those days, why? No electric lights. During Chapel some boy or girl played a special on the piano, sang a song or gave a reading. The senior class before graduation each year, had their annual play. It was presented in the school auditorium. The students and all the citizens of Bells looked forward to “The Senior Class Play”. The auditorium would be well filled and standing. I remember the talent many students had, and how well they performed. Piano recitals, as well as those taking expression were presented in the school auditorium. Bells was blessed to have had that auditorium with the large stage and seating facilities.
Now Bells has a new High School with a large campus; football field, gym, 4-H Club and building; and a cafeteria, also a nice Grade School and cafeteria. The children are bussed to school, and eat at the cafeteria, even breakfast for some. The State and Federal Government pay for all this. We walked to school. Those living in the country, several miles out rode horses or came by buggy. Many had to walk. We carried our lunch in a bucket or paper sack. We sat under a shade tree or the side of the building where the wind wouldn’t hit us to eat our lunch of cold bisquit and sausage, boiled egg and maybe a fried pie. That may sound as if we were not cared for. We certainly were, the very best of care. We had love in those days for parents, teachers, and the students and had friendship and love that was cultivated and lasting. Many people married and started homes and businesses in Bells. Many boys and girls went away to college in other states; and towns to become doctors, lawyers, engineers and politicians. Through the passing of time Bells school has turned out many “Great Ones.”
From 1900 I recall these names as early families in Bells and the country around Bells. The Mitchell’s, Craig’s, Savage, Ferguson, Bivins, Graves, Fords, Glidewell, Graybill, Stroud, Everheart, Wilson, Sanford, East, Snow, Hix, Vineyard, Bishop, Drewery, Olive, Kids, Anderson, Fagans, Massey, Johnson, Hogan, Pucket, West, Jones, Pinkston, Proctor, Hunts, Whiting, Gilliam, Templeton, Thomas,
Dugan, (William Dugan, son of Daniel pictured),
Foster, Miller, Savage, Gore, Brown, Shumpert,
Duncan, Fowler, Ledbetter, Kenouse, Badgett, Allred, Belote,
Kimbrough, Fowler, Dawson, Garner, Snavely, Stamey, Isom, Cherry, Blanton, Hughes, Witcher, McElligott, Warner, Low, Price, Dunn,Emerson, Ramsey, Lance, Morrison, Meadows, Atnip, Hodge, Washburn,
Jernigan and many more I have failed to recall.
For years Bells had a picture show. The first owner about 1910 was George Ferguson. When the stores in town got electricity there was one show a week, on Saturday night. The shows were mostly western shows, with some times an added comedy. The color was black and white, without sound. There was Tom Mix, William S. Hart, Buck Jones, Mary Pickford, Constance Talmadge, Lioned and Ethel Barrymore that were the leading actors and actresses.
Bells is in the media with narrow streets; the peaceful hustle of the people that the real atmosphere is found. The perfection of movement, the greeting with a wave or a hand shake, a broad smile which has been handed down from generation to generation. From the time when Bells was two towns Bailey Junction and Dugansville - then many years later, and the coming of the railroads; it was named Bells.
Now at this present time, 1989 I leave this thought: Those who had learned a trade passed the knowledge on to their sons and daughter. An old Proverb says, “He who has learned a trade has a golden bracelet.” (Working with their hands, earning a living by their skills, hence the reference to the golden bracelet, which always keeps its value.) We have seen slow progress over take, and give way to the fast movement of the present. We have seen the trains, automobiles, trucks, mobile homes on wheels, buses, highways, freeways, large factories, toll roads, airports, airplanes, people flying to all continents on the globe. Man on the moon, man in outer space, yes, it has all been a wonderful time to live in the 20th century and to be a part of the Blessed Heritage of Bells, Texas.
Mary Cole Photos, Courtesy, George Kimbough and
Jeanette Mayhugh, Touch of Class Antique Mall in Sherman.